Just in time for summer, I think this wintry vegan comfort food recipeis finally "solved". And as is often the case, the solution is to remove everything except the star ingredients, which are: the tempeh, marinated for 3 hours, with either soy or tamari as the salty element; the ruby slaw, made the day before; the potatoes, either meticulously mashed or crushed lazily; and some version of the gravy...in the end not a sandwich at all but much more of a vegan stamppot.
In conjunction with a very brief return visit to Ronda, there's a general tour of tropically hot (42°C/108°F in Sevilla this week) southern Spain planned as well as an excursion into the heart of European Summer Tourist Idiocy. Oh, plus a night in Fucking Africa. In July. Join me, won't you?
TORREMOLINOS Styles Music Bar. Karaoke Professionals. Need I say more. Stamcafe Torremolinos. One step more nonsensical: a Dutch karaoke bar in a Spanish beach resort town. Last night there was a Herring Party there, I kid you not. Restaurante la Viña de Ale.Among the best-looking things I could find, which is not saying anything. El Gato Lounge. Looks semi-horrible but Yelp and TripAdvisor reviews are positively glowing. From breakfast to late-night.
SEVILLA Horno San Buenaventura. "Best coffee in town." Service maybe not so much. Breakfast. Casa Morales. 160 years old and highly unfancy. Bodega Santa Cruz/Las Columnas. Seems like another very reliable "traditional" option.....very popular. Bodeguita Romero. Consistently great reviews, sounds like I have to try the pringá montaditos, but they are also known for vegetarian stuff (review). Enrique Becerra. Kind of a step in a more modern direction, in very traditional surroundings. Reviews are kind of mixed about whether it's a tourist trap or not. Maybe worth one bite (review). Eslava. Even though they have something called "fried blood with onions" on the menu, they're considered"vegetarian friendly". The bar side of things seems like the doable "fancy" option in town, the only potential downside being that it's literally ranked #2 out of 1,726 retaurants in Sevilla on TripAdvisor (review). La Azotea. Also "vegetarian friendly", in case Eslava doesn't work out. Looks a tiiiiiny bit ehhhh not cosy enough (review). Dulcería Manu Jara. Across the river near the flamenco bars, this is the location for sweet stuff, check hours. La Chunga Tapas y Platos. Near one of the bridges that head over the river, great reviews here and here. Duo Tapas. "Vegetarian friendly", up near the Alameda, great reviews here and here.
This is the official planning post for Vulture Bait 2015. A work in progressssss, this is an attempt to prioritize. The idea isn't to go to all of these places; it's to never have no idea where to go. We don't have time to fuck around.
Tostiproeftest still underway. The local critical favorite is De Caulils Tosti, and if there are no limits on how you trick your sandwich out, then yes, strong contender. It's like a fondue sandwich. I would've added a pinch of salt, but that's me.
In the "non-gourmet" class, my Amsterdam favorite is Gambrinus (below). Note the Heinz ketchup, the only appropriate ketchup to serve with a tosti. And notice that there's enough cheese so that it can't quite contain itself once bitten into. This is what you're looking for.
From a lunch @ Ron Gastrobar with ze Poes back in March. For me it's still the least disappointing restaurant in town: the food looks a little pretentious but the service and atmosphere are anything but; and I've never really had any food here that was less than really good, although I must say I am an expert orderer, I've tasted things from other people's dishes that were less exciting. Also as you may know I don't get out much, so I'm probably easily pleased.
Above: butter and pickles. Below: bread bag; smoked eel + leeks with apple and parsnip, maybe a parsley creme?; gnocchi with Jerusalem artichokes and beurre blanc?; cauliflower with brown butter crumble; tempura mista, the only dish that didn't totally work.
This is an often-NSFW, mostly gluten-free kitchen notebook that also occasionally threatens to turn into something else and fails, thus remaining its same old cryptic and superficial self. These posts begin to fail to explain (start at the bottom).