round the clock.

Just in time for summer, I think this wintry vegan comfort food recipe is finally "solved". And as is often the case, the solution is to remove everything except the star ingredients, which are: the tempeh, marinated for 3 hours, with either soy or tamari as the salty element; the ruby slaw, made the day before; the potatoes, either meticulously mashed or crushed lazily; and some version of the gravy...in the end not a sandwich at all but much more of a vegan stamppot.



ai ai ai que calor.

In conjunction with a very brief return visit to Ronda, there's a general tour of tropically hot (42°C/108°F in Sevilla this week) southern Spain planned as well as an excursion into the heart of European Summer Tourist Idiocy. Oh, plus a night in Fucking Africa. In July. Join me, won't you?

Styles Music Bar
. Karaoke Professionals. Need I say more.
Stamcafe Torremolinos. One step more nonsensical: a Dutch karaoke bar in a Spanish beach resort town. Last night there was a Herring Party there, I kid you not.
Restaurante la Viña de Ale. Among the best-looking things I could find, which is not saying anything.
El Gato Lounge. Looks semi-horrible but Yelp and TripAdvisor reviews are positively glowing. From breakfast to late-night.

Horno San Buenaventura. "Best coffee in town." Service maybe not so much. Breakfast.
Casa Morales. 160 years old and highly unfancy.
Bodega Santa Cruz/Las Columnas. Seems like another very reliable "traditional" option.....very popular.
Bodeguita Romero. Consistently great reviews, sounds like I have to try the pringá montaditos, but they are also known for vegetarian stuff (review).
Enrique Becerra
. Kind of a step in a more modern direction, in very traditional surroundings. Reviews are kind of mixed about whether it's a tourist trap or not. Maybe worth one bite (review).
Eslava. Even though they have something called "fried blood with onions" on the menu, they're considered "vegetarian friendly". The bar side of things seems like the doable "fancy" option in town, the only potential downside being that it's literally ranked #2 out of 1,726 retaurants in Sevilla on TripAdvisor (review).
La Azotea. Also "vegetarian friendly", in case Eslava doesn't work out. Looks a tiiiiiny bit ehhhh not cosy enough (review).
Dulcería Manu Jara. Across the river near the flamenco bars, this is the location for sweet stuff, check hours.
La Chunga Tapas y Platos. Near one of the bridges that head over the river, great reviews here and here.
Duo Tapas.  "Vegetarian friendly", up near the Alameda, great reviews here and here.

Hotel Continental. This explains a little. This too.
Rif Kerabdani. Vegetarian Moroccan food near the Casbah and Hotel Continental. Assuming we make it to the bnb, "more adventure" is not really the goal at that point.

El Central Restaurante & Cervecería & Tapería
Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bodega.
Los Quatro GatosGood reviews, not totally my taste stylistically, whatever that means.
Bar Abaceria La OficinaLooks "quirky" but/and close to the bnb. 
El Jardin del Califa. Fancy sit-down Moroccan in a hotel, but despite all that, great reviews. Looks somehow cool temperature-wise.



week 23.


vulture bait: the planning post.

This is the official planning post for Vulture Bait 2015. A work in progressssss, this is an attempt to prioritize.  The idea isn't to go to all of these places; it's to never have no idea where to go. We don't have time to fuck around.

Richardson's. The only restaurant I visit every visit. Real Southwestern Food, it remains to be seen what a vegetarian will eat here.
Waffle House. A undeniable part of my youth.
In-N-Out Burger. For a vegetarian, the only point of this would be to demonstrate a "secret menu".

to LAS VEGAS (5 hours?)

Yardbird Southern Table. Besides Waffle House, this is the closest The Captain is going to get to real southern food during this doomed adventure.
Dino's Lounge. 24-hour classic.
Frankie's Tiki Room. Kitsch and fire. And open 24 hours.
Circus Circus. Fear and Loathing.
Ronald's Donuts. Vegan donuts. Open 4am-4pm.
Sunrise Coffee. Vegan/vegetarian coffeeshop.
Hash House. For those non-vegan non-donut food groups.

to LONE PINE (4 hours?)
Amargosa Opera House & Hotel. "A once-in-a-lifetime experience".
Erick Schat's Bakkerÿ. "European" breads. Just because it seems like the best option between Lone Pine and Tioga Pass.
Alabama Hills Cafe. kind of seems like if you eat anywhere in Lone Pine it should be here.
Margie's Merry-Go-Round. Winner by name. Of course it's Chinese and Mexican food.

Tioga Mobil Gas Mart/Whoa Nellies. A gas station with fish tacos and live bands.
Crane Flat Campgrounds. "Dispose of garbage immediately in bear-proof dumpsters."

to NAPA/SUGARLOAF (4 hours)
Gott's Roadside. A classic?
Benziger Family Winery. Their tour is supposed to be "good for beginners".
Frog's Leap Winery. Recommendation from a trusted source.


North Coast Brewing Company. Sounds like the consensus for good beer.
Piaci Pub & Pizzeria. Sounds like the consensus for dinner.

Dick's Place. This was just about the first definite thing on the itinerary.
Harvest at Mendoza's. Grocery store if we don't feel brave enough for fancy vegan.
The Ravens. Fancy vegan, reviews wildly mixed.

Casino Bar & Grill.  New entry, recently changed chefs, more 'search needed.
The Duck Club. We'll see.
Gourmet Au Bay. I'm skeptical.

Ferry Building Marketplace. I think the point would be Il Cane Rosso or Mijita or Acme or Cowgirl, etc.
Hopwater Distribution. Close to the hotel.



the finer points.

Tostiproeftest still underway. The local critical favorite is De Caulils Tosti, and if there are no limits on how you trick your sandwich out, then yes, strong contender. It's like a fondue sandwich. I would've added a pinch of salt, but that's me.

In the "non-gourmet" class, my Amsterdam favorite is Gambrinus (below). Note the Heinz ketchup, the only appropriate ketchup to serve with a tosti. And notice that there's enough cheese so that it can't quite contain itself once bitten into. This is what you're looking for.



From a lunch @ Ron Gastrobar with ze Poes back in March. For me it's still the least disappointing restaurant in town: the food looks a little pretentious but the service and atmosphere are anything but; and I've never really had any food here that was less than really good, although I must say I am an expert orderer, I've tasted things from other people's dishes that were less exciting. Also as you may know I don't get out much, so I'm probably easily pleased.

Above: butter and pickles. Below: bread bag; smoked eel + leeks with apple and parsnip, maybe a parsley creme?; gnocchi with Jerusalem artichokes and beurre blanc?; cauliflower with brown butter crumble; tempura mista, the only dish that didn't totally work.